Travels with Charlie. The name of this blog. The name of my bike. So many things led me to this name for reasons that seem to combine my love for adventure, exploration, literature, and biking. To be honest, it also involves my love for dogs, as “Charlie” in the great Steinbeck novel is a dog that accompanies the protagonist on his cross country road trip. Don’t tell Kona, I think she might be a bit jealous. Especially, because I upgraded my old Kona road bike, which she was named after, for Charlie.
Just the other day we stopped into this old used book store. With a tiny section in English and no way of asking where to find anything, we managed to find “Travels With Charlie.” An older, more used, version than anything I have seen at home. But in so many ways more fitting. I, of course, purchased it and am so excited to re-read it. Maybe I will get Josh to read it too. Yes, I know that Steinbeck spells “Charley” a bit different, but I thought “Charlie” was a little more unique and fitting for my bike.
Charlie and I have been out most days and are starting to get the hang of this country. At least that’s what we thought. Immediately we were warned that biking here is a little crazy and we better go out really early. Of course, we didn’t fully listen. I was far too stubborn and eager to wait till the following day to ride. The first ride I would consider to be somewhat of a disaster. Rough sidewalks, lots of stoplights, honking cars, and blaring sun and heat. I quickly learned why people ride early. I too now ride early. Although the roads are still a bit rough, bike lanes or paths are few and far between, and google maps is a tad iffy, I am loving the early morning quiet and peaceful kilometers that have introduced me to the area.
Some things I have learned about the roads here in Israel: Shabbat is the absolute best time to ride, I have never experienced a city so quiet. Don’t ride hungry, it seems as though the smell of fresh falafel and pita comes out of every home, especially on Shabbat. There is a quiet window between 4-5:30PM where you can sneak in a little ride. The afternoon hits you with gnarly headwind, but the direction seems to change everyday. Israel is home to some of the best mountain biking and now I want a mountain bike too. Haifa is very steep and “Very” is an understatement. The humidity here is on another level. It may only by 85 degrees, but the humidity makes me sweat more than ever in my life. I need to learn how to say on your left and excuse me in Hebrew. Maybe I will write it on a little piece of paper and tape it to my bars so that I can remember in the heat of the moment. There are lots of one way streets and I am pretty sure it is illegal for bikes to ride the wrong way on them, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Haifa has lots of cracks and potholes. All of which are probably easy to avoid unless you are also sightseeing and people watching. Speed bumps are not friendly here. Google maps thinks that dirt roads are acceptable for road bikes. Charlie does not agree. It is really fun to pass bikers, and even more fun when they realize it is a girl.
At the top of lessons learned, I finally learned how to change a tube. Luckily, it was in the comfort of the apartment with youtube beside me, and Josh who knows a thing or two about engineering and mechanics. Up till now, I have been blessed with a dad and a brother to take care of my bike repair needs. I even had a neighbor back home who fixed bikes for a living and helped tune up my bike whenever I needed. Times have changed, and now it is my turn to give bike mechanics a spin. I successfully changed the tube. Not once, but three times. I thought I was successful the first two times, but little to my displeasure I was met with slow leaks and more deflated tires. Finally, I came to my senses and thoroughly checked the inner tire, after a little coaching from my brother that there might be a thorn in there. What a smart little brother. Charlie and I are back out on the roads with two perfectly inflated tires and a much bigger smile. I did learn that Israeli’s are very nice and will pull over to lend you their tire pump. Yes, one of the only words I know how to say in Hebrew is “thank you” and believe me, I said “todah” (תודהI) a million times.
Haifa is home to some fantastic rides, a lot which remind me of home. My favorite ride, which apparently is pretty famous in the cycling world, is the climb to Beit Oren. This is a tiny little mountain town in the Mount Carmel Preserve that has an incredible view of the ocean and Haifa. It takes me about 50 minutes to get up there from the apartment, but believe me I am working towards that Strava Queen of the Mountain title and I am not too far off the pace. Today was Shabbat and there were about a hundred riders out on this road and I only saw maybe five cars. I was able to keep up with one group of male riders who were decked out with fancy bikes, support vehicles, and shaven legs. Each one of them was surprised to look back and see this girl right on their tail. I was definitely sucking wind the whole time as they were casually sipping from their water bottles and having conversation, but believe me I was determined to stay with them. I even passed a few of them who decided to fall off the pace. Maybe next time I should have freshly shaven legs too so I can fit in.
I have found a great bike path that follows the ocean, very similar to the bike path along the beach in downtown SB. Also very similar in that walkers think that they are too good for the walking path and decide they would rather flock to the bike path. Hence, another reason why I need to know how to say “excuse me” and “on your left/right” in Hebrew.
I have taken exploration to a new level in Haifa. Although my rides are definitely shorter because it is impossible to avoid elevation, I am constantly finding new routes. I have successfully ventured through downtown Haifa, at the brisk of dawn of course, cruised through both of the big universities, almost died doing hill springs on the mountain behind the apartment, and explored neighboring towns. Yes, I have made a list of the hummus shops in each of those towns that are “must try.”
Just this morning I ventured south of Haifa to a little Town called Ein Hod. Josh and I fell in love with this town a few days ago but I wanted to explore the area more on two wheels. Stay posted, I will certainly share our experience of this charming artist colony. Anyways, just past this town you enter into the Carmel National park where the trees become even more luscious, the road gets small, and you see fewer cars but way more cows. The ocean was below me, and just ahead were fields and fields of forest with the sun rising above. Charlie and I followed the road as it got bumpier, curvier, and steeper to a small little town called Eyn Hawd. A different but similar named town to the Ein Hod we had visited earlier. It seems common that towns have very similar names, but it also seems even more common that they are very liberal with English spelling. Some times you will see Mount Carmel and others you will see Karmel. It may be confusing but keeps things exciting I guess. At one point the grade was 20%. This is definitely the steepest I have ridden before. I say “ridden” but I most definitely had to get off and walk. Yes, I know, embarrassing, but I did make it down. The town was about the size of a football field, surrounded by pomegranate trees, lemon trees, and orange trees getting ready for winter, overlooking the mediterranean sea and Mount Carmel. It of course had some hummus shops that were added to my list.
I have met quite a few cyclists and made friends at the three bike shops in the area. I hope to continue to get to know this community and find the right group for me to ride with. I have become a huge Strava stalker and I look at the routes riders around here are taking so that I can discover some of the best roads. Strava also brings back the competitive side of me and I challenge myself to get as many Queen of the Mountains to my name as possible. Check out my Strava profile to see where Charlie and I have been: Jamie’s Strava Profile.
Although I was warned about the roads here, I am becoming much more confident. I understand the flow of traffic much better, I know the better roads and the ones to avoid, and the best times. Drivers here are very respectful to bikes which is a nice change of scenery. They give a little double honk about 100 meters away to let you know they are coming, and they rarely try to pass you if the road is small. One funny thing about this area is that all of the cycling groups train at Sammy Ofer Stadium. I can look out from the balcony of the apartment and see riders circling the stadium at almost every hour of the day. There are a lot of time trials going on and I like to go out and give it a shot. I am 8 seconds off of the QOM (Queen of the Mountain) for the Sammy Ofer loop. I’ll get it one day but until then I’ll blame the head wind.
I almost forgot to mention, there is an extra bedroom for an office in the apartment. No furniture in the room yet, so I decided it is the perfect bedroom for Charlie. Yes, you read that correctly. My bike has its own bedroom with an ocean view.
Charlie and I are having a blast and excited to see what else this country has to offer. Two wheels have stayed grounded, except when Charlie is getting a bit of maintenance, and we have not gotten in any trouble with the Israeli Police. Yet. However, the police here have their lights on 24/7 and I constantly think I am getting pulled over. We have not gotten yelled at in Hebrew… too many times. All in all, great times have been had.
Travels With Charlie 